That Tuesday, when he arrived about seven o’clock at the door of his establishment, the quai-Baluze in Tulle, he found two crates of beets and cauliflowers which his gardener had delivered to him. Later he rummaged through his fridge and shop and came across a quarter of swordfish and brioche from the day before.
In relation to this morning check, Régis Raffy has built his dishes for the day, those that will be written by hand on the plate that at noon circulates between the tables of his restaurant Le Local, with a friendly attitude that fits so well the soul of the Tuileries in Trech district.
Therefore, this day, among the appetizers of the day, we will find cauliflower soup or grated beetroot and a soft-boiled egg.
“Anyway, I’d feel like a prisoner locked up with a menu that’s too fixed, and I’d get bored very quickly if I had to prepare the same dishes for months,” explains this chef in his forties, who experiences holy terror of routine and who is a zero-loss geek. “Nothing annoys me more than waste, waste, waste. »
We enjoyed fusilli with swordfish, peas and cilantro. And how about this apple brioche with the flavors of childhood? Lost? It’s not for everyone, don’t worry…
Multiple experiences
Régis’ other personality trait is his energy, his ability to create and reinvent himself. Less than six months after opening his Local, the chef is wasting no time making a name for himself in the gastronomic landscape of the Correz coast.
To say that Régis knocked is an understatement. It is true that with him “must move, must shake, must sweat again”, as Clara Luciani sings.
In Paris or Bordeaux, gourmet restaurant, brasserie, bistro, trattoria, pizzeria, fusion cuisine or chef at home: those who have studied in the hotel part of the René-Cassin High School in Tulle have multiplied professional experience in all areas of catering.
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Local, real
Madness that stopped during the health crisis. There, like so many Frenchmen, prison allowed Regis and his wife to redefine their purpose in life for their family. Early 2022 is the big change: out of Paris, back to Correz.
Professionally, this is also the opportunity that Régis has been waiting for to embark on that great adventure that so many chefs aspire to and to give life to that idea that he has fiercely kept in a small corner of his head: to create his own business … in Korez, of course.
Therefore, it will be Le Local in Tulle, on the site of a former crêperie that he bought in April 2022. The opening will take place in early May with work that this volunteer firefighter does himself.
The concept is based on one word: local. Indeed, where many establishments turn locals into an eco-marketing pose, as others engage in greenwashing to legitimize their practices, Régis doesn’t cheat, it doesn’t feign, it doesn’t tell stories. Here, the term short circuit is not an empty word, as its meat is from the countryside of the Pays de Tulle: the beef comes from Sainte-Fortunade, the lamb from Chaumeil and the vegetables from the area. As for fish, bread and wine, he buys them from local artisans and merchants. “A network of suppliers and manufacturers that is forming quickly,” he admits.
On the plates, Régis takes pleasure in offering fine cuisine, a little more creative and sophisticated on the weekends, which he likes to do, celebrating tradition and terroir while using Asian or exotic inspirations.
“For example, I like to cook beef in teriyaki or tataki, Japanese recipes, to think outside the box. Just as I like to work with fish, offering a whole mullet in the wallet. Or bream in Peruvian,” explains the man who works alone in the kitchen and who has found accompanying him in the dining room a “fighting machine” with the efficient and dynamic Lori.
And in view of these promising beginnings and a successful summer season, Régis can settle down and settle down permanently, only to incorporate Le Local into the fine gastronomic vibrancy that has been blowing over Tulle in recent years.
The product
Caramel tart from Mademoiselle Angèle. The place is beautiful, elegant, cozy. We feel good at Mademoiselle Angèle, a new teahouse created by Angélique De Sa and which opened last October, at the Carnot in Tulle location.
It is in this cozy cocoon in the heart of the city that you can enjoy tea or hot chocolate, a cake or even some savory dishes at lunchtime. We tried a homemade dessert, a Salted Butter Caramel Tart and Nut Bites. Success !
The dough is not very firm, but has a nice tasty consistency. The caramel is also perfectly calibrated: elastic and melting, neither too elastic nor too hard, mouthwatering and not too sweet, and whose note of salt finds a pleasant echo with the perfectly recognizable taste of bits of seasonal nuts.
Fashionable
For a long time there has not been a greater resonance in the taste buds of the French. And then, in recent years, boosted by the ceviche movement (raw fish salad seasoned with lime and spices), Peruvian cuisine has earned its place among the world’s best cuisines. Several food magazines recently named Lima and Peru as the gastronomic destinations of the moment. Peru stands out thanks to its exceptional products from the Andes (cereals, fruits, roots, etc.), but also for its dishes such as tirado, rocoto Rellono (hot pepper) or aji de gallina (chicken and pepper soup) . Note the enthusiasm for new culinary trends such as Nikkei cuisine (a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian) and chifa (a Sino-Peruvian trend).
Wine
Main Roads 2020. Regis trusted Vincent Dubech, his wine merchant neighbor across the Correz, to build a relevant, intelligent wine list that even gave pride of place to local wine. Perhaps we will soon discover this cuvée des Grands chemins produced by Roucas Toumba, owned by the Bouletin family, in Vacqueyras (Vaucluse). Deaf to fashion and trends, Éric Bouletin remains true to his principles of freedom and authenticity, values that can be found in his wines, such as this blend of Grenache, old Carignan and Syrah. An alliance of iconic grape varieties from the southern part of the Rhône Valley that deliver a typical southern wine with an aroma rich in sunlight and red fruit. On the palate, it is direct, frank and immediate, knows how to play mischievously on strength and softness, even leaving room for spicy notes to express themselves. Job well done.
Fabrice Varieras